By Carol Matlack in Paris

A Mustard Capital Loses Its Spice

Dijon, the capital of Burgundy that has been famous for mustard since the 1600s, is losing its last mustard maker. Citing high costs at the 97-year-old Amora Maille plant, Anglo-Dutch group Uni­lever, which acquired the premium brand in 1999, says it will halt production by the end of 2009 and move to a lower-cost Burgundy site. Sales in France of Amora Maille, made in Dijon since 1845, have fallen 5% since 2003 as consumers buy cheaper brands. Dijon-style mustard gets its distinctive taste from a juice made of unripe grapes. Grapes abound in Burgundy, but “Dijon” can be used on mustard made anywhere. Other Dijon producers—including Grey Poupon, owned by Kraft Foods—have already decamped to cheaper locales.